I’m back in Israel now after 9 days in Istanbul with my friend Eric. Since I’m still figuring out this blog thing I think I’ll organize this post by day, starting on the day I left Israel (and the day after my last post), August 21st
Day 1.
Eric and I left for the airport at about 7:15 AM, giving ourselves three and a half hours to make our 10:45 flight. At the time this seemed extraordinarily cautious because after the 20 minute taxi ride to the airport it seemed like we were going to be sitting and waiting at the gate for an hour or two. BUT! As soon as we step into the line for the first (of three) security screenings an airport security woman asks to check our passports. She asks us each about 4 or 5 questions (Why are you going to Turkey? How long have you been in Israel? Do you speak Hebrew? Did you learn any Hebrew as a child? Are you affiliated with a synagogue in the United States?). Eric’s answers were satisfactory and he was allowed to stay in line but my answers, although very similar to Eric’s, (… except for my lack of Hebrew school and an affiliation with a synagogue) were apparently suspicious. I was taken across the airport lobby to a desk where I was questioned for about an hour. Two security guards, a man and a woman, asked me everything. (Why Israel? Why religious studies? Why Turkey? Where’s your stuff? Name everyone you know in Israel. When are you returning to the US?--- asked me this about 10 times--- When did you buy your ticket to Turkey? What does the bear with tennis shoes on your shirt mean? How do you know your traveling buddy?) They asked me more questions that I can even think of, went through my camera to check the pictures I took in Israel, looked through my list of sights to see in Istanbul, and asked for any receipts I had from my two days in Israel.
I was incredibly nervous the whole time but was waved through and made my flight with a couple minutes to spare. Even though it worked out, it did put me on edge for the flight and the arrival in Istanbul.
Pictures from Day 1:
After we checked into our hostel we went out to explore and find some food. This is Eric right outside our hostel (the building behind him is the four seasons hotel that was converted from a prison).
The Blue Mosque (above) was about 2 blocks away from the hostel. We were right between this and Hagia Sophia.
Our first meal in Turkey! This is Eric's meal, tevuk sote (chicken with tomatoes and herbs). We found this place, called Yeni Yildiz, in our guide book. We had a little trouble finding it but a very nice Turkish man came up to us when we had a map out and asked if he could help. After pointing us in the right direction he asked where we were from and then recited all of the American presidents he could think of. Apparently he didn't like many of them and was disappointed by Obama but he said really loved and missed Kennedy.
This was my dinner , tevuk sis (chicken shish). Very good but it was all over so I got tired of it by the end of the trip. The rice was delicious!!
The first night we were surprised to find a huge Ramadan break fast/party in the street. Hundreds of people, most families came out to the area between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia to break fast and celebrate. There were vendors selling all kinds of food and deserts. These are some teenage boys selling cotton candy, light up headbands, and light up rockets. There were kids everywhere running around and shooting these blue rocket toys into the air. There was also a traditional Turkish band that preformed every night from about 10 to 11:30. It was amazing, we went back almost every night.
Pictures from Day 2:
This is from breakfast on the terrace of our hostel. (Pretty much every single restaurant in Sultanahmet-- the area we were staying-- claimed they had the best view from their terrace). Every morning we ate a breakfast of olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, a hard boiled egg, cheese, bread, butter and jam with either Turkish tea or instant coffee. It was a great to start each morning outside with a nice breakfast.
This is me and Eric on the terrace of our hostel (also a restaurant). You can't totally tell from this picture but the view was amazing. You could see the Old City (where we were), the New City, and all the way across the Bosphorus to the Asian side of the city.
This is also from the terrace of our hostel. It's me taking a picture.
The first sight we visited was the Blue Mosque (It's named for the tiles decorating its interior not the outside). It was amazing from the inside, really really huge and covered with ceramic tiles (mostly in blue shades). Like all of the mosques we took off our shoes and I covered my knees, shoulders, and head while we were inside. All the mosques in Istanbul broadcast their call to prayer (5 times a day) over loud speaker but the Blue Mosque's is by far the loudest. During Ramadan everyone waits for the call to prayer at about 8:30 to start eating.
Next we went to the Grand Bazaar, a huge covered market with pretty much everything. This place sold ceramics. We bought two pieces from here to bring back for the Maron's and the Kfir's (my lovely hosts in Tel Aviv).
This is Eric. Behind him these light fixtures that we found everywhere. They were in restaurants and there were a ton of shops selling them for pretty cheap. If I had been able to transport it and had a place to put it I would have loved to buy one.
This is from lunch our second day. It was absolute delicious- one of my favorite meals from the trip. It was chicken, rice, lettuce, and tomato wrapped in a tortilla-like piece of bread. Yum! Also, it seemed that all Turks drank Ayran, a salty yogurt drink, with every meal. Ayran was super cheap but I could only really handle a couple sips with each meal.
Here we are a the Topkapi palace (cameras weren't allowed in most of the palace). Topkapi palace was the main residence of the Sultans of the Ottoman empire for about 400 years. Behind us is the Bosphorus straight, Asia on the right and Europe on the left. At the palace we saw an 86 carat diamond. FRICKIN' AMAZING! We also saw what supposedly was Moses staff, a hair from Muhammad's beard, a bowl Muhammad once drank out of, Abraham's drinking bowl, and David's sword....
After a long day we stopped for some watermelon on the street. It was delicious! This is Eric gracefully eating while walking.
Me eating. Yum.
This is pide, bread with cheese. Of course, it was awesome.
Pictures of Day 3:
This is the outside of the Chora Church. This church was converted into a mosque in the 16th century but was restored to it's churchness. The interior is covered with mostly mosaics (of St. Anne, Mary, and Jesus' lives). It was kind of nice to be in a church because I knew what I was looking at and could recognize the scenes in the mosaics.
Mosaic of this guy. It's Jesus.
Frescos! Also from Chora Church.
Chora church was right by the walls of Constantine so we climbed up! The "stairs," as you can see, were quite steep.
This is one of the lookouts on the walls of Constantine. That's me up there by the flag.
View from the walls of constantine. AMAZING VIEW. Best in all of Istanbul I believe. I could see forever.
Me taking a picture of the view. Eric took this one (actually Eric took a bunch of the photos up here but I can't remember which- definitely all of the ones of me- Thanks Eric!!)
HAGIA SOPHIA WAS AMAZING. I almost cried as we walked into this church (converted to mosque converted to museum). It's huge and beautiful and the dome is incredibly impressive. I don't even know how to describe it so I guess I'll just say go if you ever get the chance.
Hagia sophia again.
Apparently this column (in the Hagia Sophia) cries. If you put your thumb in and it comes out damp your wish will come true. My thumb came out gross... So we'll see if it comes true.
Hagia Sohia, Eric, and me!
Pictures from Day 4:
On the way to Heybeliada Island, one of the Princes' Islands just off the coast of Istanbul in the Sea of Marmara. We took a bunch of boat rides during our trip and they were great! Beautiful views and lovely wind.
We biked along the coast of the small island and stopped at the top of a hill to climb down to a beach. Here is Eric almost all of the way down to the water. It was a great little cove with a bunch of boats but we were the only ones on the beach! (Probably because no one else would climb down the side of that hill to get to it)
Heading down!
On our way back to the Heybeliada ferry station another group of tourists asked for us to take a picture of them so we did too.
That night we went to this place right on the water to celebrate Eric's 20th birthday. Happy Birthday Eric.
Eric and his fish. Yuck. But he seemed to enjoy it quite a bit.
Pictures from Day 5:
Eric reading about Istiklal St. in the New City.
Before!
Our guide book recommended a barber for a shave so Eric decided to go for it! They used silk thread to do the last bit. Looked like it hurt really bad. He may have teared up.
The barbers were super friendly and asked us to stay for Turkish tea after his shave. One of them loved my camera and took a bunch of pictures.
After!
Me on the top of Galata Tower. We heard it was the best view in Istanbul. It was great but I thought that the view from the walls of Constantine was better.
Man who sold cucumber, apples, and a cucumber like thing (just a tad sweeter and shaped like a mango).
Spice market! Beautiful market but we went when we were hungry and it was hard to resist all the Turkish delight (chewy candy with nuts). We ended up buying some (almond and pomegranate!).
Cat drinking from the faucet outside of a mosque (faucets are to wash your hands and feet before entering the mosque to pray).
Me taking picture.
We decided that we were going to eat a bunch of street food for dinner. This bread is called gozleme (in the US I've seen it called lavash, but the lavash bread in Turkey is a pita like bread that gets all puffed up when you bake it). Filled with cheese!!
DELICIOUS yogurt from a booth. It's from Kanlica, a town down the Bosphorus from Istanbul. Eric got his with honey and powdered sugar and I got mine with sour cherry jam. We went back a couple times for this yogurt (and the man remembered us!).
This is Zythum. Looks good right? It's gross. Tastes like apple sauce mush mixed with flour and water. Rather tasteless.
Corn on the cob was everywhere.
Freshly squeezed pomegranate juice!
This is flavored honey. They would spin the honey onto a stick to make a lollipop like dessert (except the honey was soft). Very good but very messy!
Me eating the honey stick thing.
Pictures from Day 6:
Took a Bosphorus Cruise to Kilyos for the beach!
My first time in the Black Sea!
Eric lookin' happy on the way back from the beach.
Water and stuff.
I also experienced a Turkish bath on this day! (But didn't take pictures because that would be weird). I went to this old bath house where I changed into just a towel and they brought me into this incredibly hot, humid room where I waited on a heated marble slab for about 25 minutes-- I got reallyyy sweaty and hot. Yum. Then a woman brought me to the "just for the ladies" room where she took off my towel and poured hot water on my head. Then she exfoliated my entire body with these rough glove things. After than she rinsed me off and got me very soapy, another rinse then she massaged me. After that I went back to the incredibly hot room and marble slab. I was there for about another half hour but this time water was poured on me every couple minutes. It was actually really nice but it was definitely a little bit out of my comfort zone. Modesty wasn't really an option and there was absolutely nowhere I wasn't touched. Very interesting experience and definitely relaxing once I got used to it. Ladies, I'd recommend trying it if you ever find yourself in Turkey. Guys, I'm not so sure. Eric had a very different experience from mine. He was pulled and contorted in crazy ways, he says he enjoyed it but it was definitely not as relaxing as my experience.
Pictures from Day 7:
We tried Turkish Coffee! Eric had his with mastic, a flavoring. He liked it!
I wasn't sure if I would like it because I'm not much of a coffee drinker, but I was pleasantly surprised. I got mine plain, without flavoring, but sweetened and it was good! Muddy coffee grinds at the bottom.
Coffee mud.
Boat ride from Europe to Asia! Spent the afternoon in Asia. Not as much to see on that side of the Bosphorus but it was fun to take a day trip to another continent. Eric forgot his sunglasses.
They LOVE their Ataturk (first president of Turkey). Statues of him everywhere.
Me with Europe.
Pictures from Day 8:
Underground Cistern. Very pretty but not the most impressive sight we saw.
We had our last lunch at a restaurant connected to a craft school. There were tons of ceramics, paintings, and jewelry shops around us. Unfortunately, we got there a little late and they had run out of almost all the food... The man who took this picture (he worked at the restaurant) also had quite a bit of fun with my camera.
Mosque of Suleyman. Very beautiful. I think I liked this mosque better than the Blue Mosque. The colors were warmer and it was simpler.
Me in front of the mosque of Suleyman.
It's me.
Me and a mini version of Galata Tower.
Eric in Gulhane park. Apparently we were there just a bit after the prime minister of Turkey strolled through the park with his wife.
Picture from the last day:
(On the last day we went to the Turkish-Jewish museum but no pictures were allowed)
Eric and me on our way to the airport. Behind us to the left is the Blue Mosque.
I had a great time in Istanbul! If you ever get the chance to go, take it! (And thanks for coming with me Eric!)
P.S. The title of the post refers the many, many people on the street who would say "Yes please" as you walked by their shop or restaurant to try to get you to come in. My best guess is that they were just saying the exact opposite of the much repeated "No thank you."
